14 Aralık 2012 Cuma

Is Fashion Art?

Words would fail to explain how much of a fan I am of the bullettmedia.com. Not only that a Turkish lady being the magazine's editor-in-chief but also its rich content and the perfectly constructed design of its web site, which doesn't behave like a tight-fisted snob allowing you to read only two sentences of each article. (Right here I should also give Dazed Digital's credit for that.)

The latest drop of knowledge from the Bullet Media, which has been keeping my and may be others' mind busy since forever, is Valerie Steele's talk on 'Is fashion art?'. Valerie Steele, in one sentence, is a well-known fashion historian and the curator and the director of the museum at the FIT in New York. Besides all, she's such an educator that I couldn't help being all ears for about an hour. She refers to many quotations by famous designers', artists' and also a famous economist's opinions on the subject during her speech, and comes to the conclusion that the answer to this very controversial question lies all under  'fashion being legitimated as art.'
I strongly suggest everyone to listen to this invaluable lecture worth speech, but for the others to whom this 45-minute span seems like hours here're my notes from it.

-It’s about how we define art right now
-It’s the antithesis of this kind of authentic high cultural art.
- Deformed thief (Shakespeare)
-women's vanity, women’s body
-a mullock that devours modern people (Victorians)
-frivolity and vanity of fashion
-Werner Sombart: “Fashion is capitalism's favorite child.”
-Antithesis of purism and authenticity of art
-Artisans and artists
- artists like van dyke were used as inspiration for couture
-Some fashion is No more than copies of simple paintings by masters.
-fashion for fashion
-William Morris: “Fashion is a strange monster born of the vacancy of the lives of rich people.”
-Oscar Wilde: “So intolerable that we have to alter it every six months.”
-Paul Poiret was hired to be the potato fryer for the house.
-Poiret: "Ladies come to me for a gown, as they go to a distinguished painter to get their portrait put on canvas. I am an artist not a dress maker. "
-Chanel: “A dress is neither a tragedy nor a painting. It is a charming and feminine creation, not an everlasting work of art. Fashion should die and die quickly, in order that newcomers may survive. Neither Italians nor artists can make clothes. A little black dress is difficult.”
-Cocteau and Schiaparelli collaborations
-Working with Dali make Schiaparelli’s field supported and understood beyond the crude and boring reality of merely making a dress to sell.
-Also Chanel worked with artists but she did it separately from her own line of fashion
-Poiret and Schiaparelli saw fashion as a theatre performance, embodying art
-Vionnet: “Fashion is art, art is creative and men are the creators.”
-Balenciaga: “Couturier must be an architect for the cut, a sculptor for the form, painter for the colors and musician for the harmony and philosopher for the style.”
-Japanese fashion was a revolution, dramatically different from the western contemporary fashion.
-New emphasis on fashion as art and new relation between body and fashion.
-Art in terms of visual culture.
-Chalayan and McQueen
-Intersection of art and fashion
-Art is art, fashion is fashion. However Andy Warhol proved they can exist together.
-Warhol is a Key figure in fashion asking ‘what is art?’
-Anything could be art but that doesn’t mean everything
-A work of art is an object which exists only by virtue of the collective belief which knows and acknowledges it as art.
-A belief in the value of art
-30 years before, jazz and photography and cinema was accepted as not art forms but forms of popular culture
-The process of legitimation (classical music old paintings are accepted as ART)
-We believe that something is art or else it won’t be art.
- Producing its value as art
-Legitimation of fashion as art needs producing its value as art.
-Not all fashion is art.
-‘Fashion designers have to make clothes and sell them.’ says Frida and Elsa replies ‘to be honest may be nothing is art, who cares?’

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